"Watches come and go, but these friendships stay and many great watch-related friendships have grown over the years."

Bernhard Bulang  //  THE HOROLOGICAL MINUTE
Bernhard Bulang

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THE HOROLOGICAL MINUTE

INTRODUCING

Bernhard Bulang

This week we bring to you an interview with a truly passionate collector. Bernhard has translated his passion and love for vintage style and design into Bulang and Sons, a successful online business that brings carefully curated "collectors sets" and high quality Italian leather-goods to the masses. A co-founder of the annual "Passion" GTGs, Bernhard's infectious enthusiasm has made him one of the most identifiable players in the vintage Rolex world. Hear what he has to say in this week's Horological Minute.

What was your first watch?

My first "real" watch was a Bell & Ross chronograph, bought right after birth of my oldest son. I had that one lying next to an Omega Speedmaster at the jewellery shop and unluckily for my son, who will get the watch when he turns 18, I did not choose the Omega! I had been wearing the B&R daily for 9 years, but then the vintage watch virus hit me. At first I experimented with some classics from different brands, but eventually my love for vintage Rolex took over big time. My first was a Rolex 6536/1 4-line Submariner. It was actually the first watch I bought from Philipp Stahl, which was the beginning of our great friendship that still lasts to today. That’s what is so great… these watches connect. Watches come and go, but these friendships stay and many great watch-related friendships have grown over the years.

What was the last watch you bought?

The last watch I bought was an Omega 300 SM Seamaster. During the period when I was deep into the Rolex ‘madness’, I neglected different brands and beautiful watches; it was all Rolex. Over the last two years I have started to see the beauty of other watches and brands again. Like the waterproof chronographs from the 40s and vintage Omega classics like this SM300. I was very lucky as I have been able to find an all original (owner) watch with an amazing dial and patina. The watch was worn for 4 years after being bought by the original owner in 1968. He suddenly died in 1972 and since then the watch has been stored in a closet by his widow. A collector bought it from the family and ultimately it has landed with me. I love these kinds of watches, with special emotional value in them. And an original pristine Omega SM300 big triangle is, of course, a treasure and rare find these days.

Do you prefer vintage or modern?

Certainly, I am a vintage guy. I tried many modern watches over the years, but they feel ‘dead’ on my wrist - they just don’t have the magic of a plexi-glass on top of a tritium dial. The only modern watches I really like are the Tudor Heritage line, which are a great fusion of vintage essence and modern lifestyle. They display great emotion and feel relevant today. Also the people behind these watches are really passionate and I can truly relate to that.

Can you remember your last great meal? Where was it and what did you eat?

Yes, but it was different to what you might think. It was a simple meal with my family in my hometown. We walked downtown and had quality time to ourselves and it became the most relaxed and memorable meal I have had for a long time...precious moments.

Do you remember what watch you were wearing?

Yep, my beater. A Rolex 1680 maxi dial with a #19 plexi super domed on top and ghost grey bezel. Classic vintage Rolex love!

What do you love about vintage Rolex?

I love stories, stories of people and objects that have an interesting history - that’s what I love about these vintage watches. And vintage Rolex by its heritage of professional tool watches and watches for people who helped build the world we live in, symbolises all of that. As a designer I love the timeless aesthetics of these vintage watches, but most of all I love the look of a patinated dial with an old super-domed plexi. Every twist of the wrist shows a different feel and look of the watch and it feels so alive and could tell so many unique stories. What i love most about vintage Rolex is the group of people collecting them; a nice breed of people all over the world, connected by our shared passion and aesthetic values.

Strap or bracelet?

Straps - what else can I say! Yes I love them, especially the vintage style leather nato straps. It’s such a cool fusion of elegance and tool-watch-feeling and I love the contrast. It looks cool under both a slick suit and an outdoor coat or with a t-shirt and jeans. I also love to mix and match - in a time where really nice watches get harder and harder to find its great fun to change style and by that the look of a watch. It can just feel so different on the wrist without changing your watch.

GMT/EXPLORER/SUB/DAYTONA or........?

I am a non-date Submariner guy at heart. Starting with the Big Crowns and early gilt Submariners and up to end of the 1970’s Maxi dials. Also, the vintage Daytona is one of my big loves. I really loved the Newmans that I have owned and the Sigma dial screw-pusher Daytonas - sporty, classic and elegant. To be honest at the moment it’s itching again, I would like to buy a pre Daytona chrono soon. I love the look of them on a straight endlink bracelet.

What do you want to see come out from Rolex at the next Basel Fair?

The last years I have had many discussions about what Rolex should have done and speculations about what will come next. I believe that they were right to maintain their course of slow evolution of their classics based on their unique DNA. However, I am less of a fan of the shiny and gold/diamond pieces that they have shown over the last years. But in reality, that was always a large section of their collections in the past - only passionate collectors focus on the sports watch lines of their heritage. I am happy that they did not jump on the re-edition train and hope they stick more to simple and iconic. I don’t even see the reason for the rat race of the brands to present something new every year, as it can feel more of a marketing stunt, instead of quality releases. I see so many brands adding (design and technical) features to be ‘new’ and in that losing their lasting design quality, which a wrist watch should have in my opinion.

What's on your wrist today?

One of my favourite watches, a tropical brown Rolex 1675 GMT, which is quite rare with the matte dial GMT’s from the late 60s. Not only does it have an amazing feel with different shades of brown with changing light and sun, but it has also a special story to me. I was very lucky to get it a couple of years ago and for a while it was my favourite watch. One day a tree fell on my beloved classic car and sadly I discovered I was not insured for such an event regretfully and i sold the watch to fund the car repairs and I missed it ever since. By pure luck (or was it destiny?!)I was able to buy it back more than 2 years later and now it will stay with me forever! I simply can’t imagine a nicer GMT – I love it!

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